Joan and Ed’s

french silk pie

Chocolate Curls
Register on the left ahead of the menorah, dreidel, and shalom door placard paraphernalia, for sale all year. Deli counter on the right. Brightly lit dessert refrigerator straight ahead, with restaurant seating behind.

This was my Jewish deli. My metrowest, semi-suburban, strip mall–contained Jewish deli.

Joan was warm and jolly with white hair, red lips, and a big-toothed smile. Ed had a shiny bald spot and a nose almost as pronounced as mine that carried a square pair of specs. Joan wasn’t always visible. Ed stood behind the takeout deli counter, watching as kugel, and stuffed cabbage, and broth-bathed matzo balls were scooped into containers and sold.

But for the most part, Joan and Ed were the infamous black and white caricatures depicted in paintings hung on the dineresque restaurant’s walls — their family members the visible staff at the restaurant along with their team of sassy, almost-middle-aged waitresses who reeked of perfume and called you “honey” and such.

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Re-creating a Favorite

flattened za’atar chicken over cheese pancake

chicken under brick
Lately, things have been a little dark in this space. A little too sad and depressing. I’m getting itchy and restless. There have been hints of beauty, even hilarity, in the midst of the normal sniffles and general unpleasantness that define this season for me, and it’s time to breath and enjoy a bit.

One thing I typically start doing more of this time of year is eating out. There are a lot of new(ish) places I look forward to checking out now that I am awake from my long winter’s nap. But last weekend I found myself wanting to play with seasonal flavors (well, the ones I can find right now) in a dish, or a version of one, I enjoy from my favorite standby restaurant in my area. Maybe recreating this restaurant dish serves to bridge the transition from eating in to eating in and out. But it was fun, and it is definitely going on the rotation.

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