New in Boston: M3

M3, davis square

Meat n’ three. Meat and three sides. Emphasis on the meat. That’s the inspiration behind M3, Jason Owens’ (Local 149) casual new Southern-style restaurant right on Highland Ave. in Davis Square. Meat n’ three. Two little content words somehow have the power to incite so much fear. It’s not that I don’t eat meat. I love (good) barbeque and the long, charred kabab skewers that I grew up with. I love spending a winter evening in, softly singing to a slowly simmering braise or a summer one grilling a chicken over a charcoal flame. I classify my dishes by protein. But I’ll admit that the idea of eating large quantities of meat at every course of a meal — apps, snacks, mains — is a tad overwhelming.

Comforting, though, was the adorable space; it was playfully kitschy without being corny (think hanging ball jar lights; chalkboard tables and walls and, um, bathrooms; and a decorative, blue tin ceiling). To avoid an hour wait, our party of four sat at the diner-style counter, something I would recommend but only to twosomes in the future. Sitting so close to the open kitchen, though, I was ready to take on my meat. I was fearless.

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A Place for Sharing

the gallows

I grew up in a family of “sharers.” Dinner was a battlefield; no one’s dish was his own. Ok, that’s a tad dramatic. But in an effort to taste “a little bit of everything,” as my mom would say, we readily employed our bread dishes to share bites of each other’s orders. Sure, I appreciate having something that is “mine” and experiencing a composed dish as the chef intended it. But I still have acquired this neurotic compulsion to experience as many tastes off a menu as possible.

It really wasn’t until college that I found out that normal people don’t always follow this dining code. Even since then, I have occasionally found myself encouraging others to taste my dishes when they’re good and getting no such offers in return. I have dear friends who are strict “non-sharers,” and I respect that. But I certainly won’t take them to The Gallows.

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